It's that time of year. Ride them on in, you beautiful bastards

posted by paul @ 5:33 PM

We had driven all night, arriving in Corpus at 5, as the dawn was starting to break. I will never forget the breakfast burritos from the last gas station before the drive south to Port Mansfield. 60 miles of loose sand eventually widened between the group and the burrito wrappers.

We thought it odd that he was so brief on such a huge day for us. Surely he was going to break out the real secrets that only a local would know.

"Get to where the wave is breaking. Point your nose toward the shore. When you see your wave, paddle as hard as you can. The wave will start to take you, and the moment it does, jump to your feet. That's surfing."

I can't help but feel like my wave has started to break, and it is glorious. A boy can get tired of paddling.

posted by paul @ 11:59 PM